6 San Juan hotels where you can pair the beach with the city
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Generally speaking, beach vacations fall into one of two buckets. There's the fly-and-flop variety, where the most energy you'll exert is pointing to the chaise lounge chair you want; and then there's the mix-n'-match kind where, no matter how much you enjoy surfside rum and Cokes, you eventually get the itch to venture out. If you're in the second group, consider San Juan, Puerto Rico, for your next tropical trip.
Here, you can pair daily beach outings with architectural tours of Spanish colonial buildings and historic sights, shopping jaunts along boutique-lined streets or late-night forays into the city's buzzing bar scene. Of course, there's still the question of where to stay. You can choose from among the many traditional beach resorts, but for something that puts you as close to the action as the sand—and has perks all its own—consider overnighting at one of these six unique stays, several of which tout direct access to the beach.
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Fairmont El San Juan (Isla Verde)
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Opened in 1958, El San Juan Hotel was once the city's nexus of entertainment, with a theater and cabaret club frequented by Frank Sinatra. Today, it's a historic landmark—the lobby still features the same hand-carved mahogany ceilings and massive chandeliers, and the speakeasy hosts live entertainment seven nights a week. Of course, much has changed, too. There are now 388 rooms, ranging from tower suites to poolside villas, plus a casino, shopping gallery, spa and four pools. Also on site are nine restaurants, five bars and a dance club, providing more ways than ever to amuse yourself.
Aire de O:live (Isla Verde)
At this boutique hotel on Isla Verde, the 78 rooms have a bohemian feel and feature locally made furniture and décor. Some even sport fun extras, like see-through showers and step-out balconies with ocean views. There are eight different categories, but the room to book is the top-floor Agua de O:live Master Suite, which boasts a Zen garden-inspired living room and heated, infinity-edge plunge pool. Up on the roof, guests find the perennially popular Kumo, a Japanese robatayaki restaurant with sweeping views of the top beach in the metropolitan area.
Hotel El Convento (Old San Juan)
Set on Old San Juan's bustling Calle del Cristo, this former convent may not seem like the premier candidate for a peaceful stay. But once you're through its massive wooden doors, which part to reveal breezy, black-and-white-tile hallways furnished with wrought-iron chandeliers and plucked-from-the-Prado oil paintings, you'll scarcely register the crowds. There's also a hushed inner courtyard, a chapel with a commanding mural by Rafael Seco and an alfresco restaurant perfect for late-afternoon drinks. Rooms are all recently renovated and a rooftop pool terrace overlooks the busy square.
Condado Vanderbilt Hotel (Condado)
Designed by the same firm responsible for Grand Central Station, this Spanish Revival hotel has been a landmark on Condado Beach since it opened in 1919. Salmon-colored hallways, an imperial staircase and an eclectic assortment of art stand out, as do updated hotel rooms with Art Deco details and a sprawling spa with Puerto Rico's only hammam. Elbow up to the pool bar for a mojito or, for a truly decadent evening, drop by the Champagne and caviar bar—no doubt it would have been a favorite of the founding Vanderbilt family.
Condado Ocean Club (Condado)
This adults-only, 96-key boutique hotel is a refreshing alternative to the massive resort casinos you'll find in abundance on this part of the island. Floor-to-ceiling windows in the rooms and an oceanfront infinity pool create the illusion that the resort is floating in the Atlantic; book a third-floor balcony room (or the Atlantic Ocean Terrace room) for a truly uninterrupted view. Guests who stay here during the weekend can expect a low-key atmosphere, but the party starts on Saturday when you might see a live DJ by the pool and the Sandbox beach bar starts serving drinks.
Don Rafa Boutique Hotel & Residences (Miramar)
With its splashy décor; 21st-century amenities, including a gym and rooftop pool; and musky custom scent, it's surprising that Don Rafa dates to the 1950s—that's when Rafael Salazar, a Spanish immigrant and entrepreneur, selected its choice corner plot in quiet Miramar, about 15 minutes east of Old San Juan, for his family's home and textile shop. You'll still catch the occasional nod to these roots—see the clubby cigar lounge and portrait of Salazar's wife hanging in the lobby—but these days, the 36 rooms and party-on atmosphere feel far better suited to a friends' getaway than a family gathering.
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