Raffles London at The OWO: Fit for Spies, and Your Stay in the Big Smoke
Chase Travel
Wondering what it's like to stay at the Raffles London at The OWO? Chase Travel’s writers and editors visit the world's top hotels to give you a firsthand look inside.
This highly anticipated property may be the U.K.'s first-ever Raffles but, somehow, calling it a hotel seems inadequate. After all, the 20th-century landmark is so much more than the sum of its 120 rooms and 85 residences.
The baroque monolith, formerly the Old War Office where the Secret Service Bureau held its first meetings in subterranean rooms, presides over London's Whitehall neighborhood and straddles the intersection of history and legend. It wasn't until the Raffles opened in September 2023 that the spectacular building (and more than a century of British history) became accessible to the public for the very first time.
While exploring the miles of corridors linking the rooms, suites and public spaces, it's easy to feel swept back in time. After all, the hotel is filled with museum-worthy artifacts and carefully restored details that recall the OWO's deep ties to Sir Winston Churchill, James Bond creator Ian Fleming and countless real-life secret agents. But despite its provenance, the Raffles manages to feel incredibly relevant, thanks in no small part to its buzzy bars and spate of star chefs.
Walking through the main entrance of the Raffles London at The OWO is like stepping through an elegant wormhole hewn of Portland stone that transports you 100 years into the past.
A doorman, clad in port-colored coattails and a smart bowler, greets you upon arrival. A 3,000-piece Venetian glass chandelier dangles from a cupola overhead. A balcony, from which Churchill used to share daily briefings during his stint as Secretary of State for War, overlooks the grand marble staircase. You almost expect to catch the former prime minister meandering the property's 10-foot-wide corridors, or gazing out a window framed by red drapes trimmed with leather and gold buttons. Or, more likely, nursing a glass of Louis XIII cognac while seated in a red-leather slipper chair at the wood-paneled Guards Bar.
It's just one of nearly a dozen bars and restaurants scattered around The OWO, accounting for a mind-boggling guest-to-restaurant ratio. Many notable chefs and restaurants have lent their talents (and names) to theatrical tasting menus and elite dining experiences that draw locals along with visitors. The most coveted may be The Spy Bar, a subterranean speakeasy for hotel guests, residents and invitees only. Knock for entry and agree to have your phone camera covered—no pictures are allowed once inside.
Though the hotel skirts stuffiness, everyone treats the space with reverence, as you might a library or museum. There's not much in the way of a traditional lobby, but if you want to grab a seat, you can do so in the concierge area, which is dominated by "Convocation," a 20-foot-tall sculpture commissioned for the hotel that features architectural styles from across the globe. Mostly, people are shepherded toward their destinations, like missives sent along the telephone cables running beneath the corridors.
History is the beating heart of the Raffles London, but the hotel is not without its contemporary touches. Three stories were excavated below The OWO to accommodate the sprawling Guerlain Spa and 65-foot swimming pool, and Thierry Despont (the architect and designer who helmed the Statue of Liberty restoration) oversaw the hotel's interior design, ensuring both historical accuracy and modernity.
If there was any doubt the Raffles was a property of import—not just for travelers but also for anyone with an interest in secret agents or World War II history—consider the regular tours (including those combined with afternoon tea), which are open to the public so its stories are accessible to all.
Cardmember Benefits
The Raffles London at The OWO is a member of The Edit by Chase Travel℠, a collection of hand-picked hotels with premium benefits for Chase Sapphire Reserve cardmembers. Customers who book a stay at the Raffles London through The Edit will earn 3 points per dollar and receive special benefits, outlined below.
Daily breakfast for two
Your benefit includes breakfast at Saison, the hotel's all-day restaurant. Grab a seat beneath the restored glass atrium and peruse the small but thoughtful continental breakfast spread (fresh and dried fruits, charcuterie and viennoiserie), plus items from the à la carte menu: favorites include the full English, a smoked trout twist on the Benedict and a Provençal omelet with stracciatella, tomato confit and basil. You can also order breakfast at The Drawing Room, Pillar Kitchen or through room service.
Room upgrade if available
You could get upgraded to the next available room category. Book a Superior or Deluxe from the jump for more usable space, like a cozy sitting area.
Welcome amenity
You'll receive a welcome amenity that's subject to change and seasonal, but may include a cloche-covered stand with charcuterie, plus a bottle of Louis Roederer Champagne and festive chocolates—with a handwritten welcome letter.
A $100 property credit
Your credit can be used on food and beverage purchases at the hotel's exclusive restaurants. Make it count at The Spy Bar, where the cocktails tell stories of espionage and intrigue.
The Room
Unlike the rest of the property, which maintains a stately, masculine aesthetic, rooms are bright and classic in design with neutral hues, pale plaids and white marble baths. The entry-level Classic rooms are just about 330 square feet; upgrade to a larger room category for a soaking tub or sitting area.
Soaring ceilings make each room feel larger, while thoughtful details—fresh-cut flowers, custom stationery, signature bath products and, it must be said, ludicrously soft toilet paper—underscore the hotel's high level of service. Even the room key is encased in supple, embossed leather.
Though they're rooted in the past, the rooms feel decidedly modern thanks to radiant floors in the bathroom, a Chromecast-enabled television and tablet-controlled curtains, which can be drawn to reveal Horse Guards Avenue (where you might see the cavalry).
The Features
Don't miss: The Spy Bar. Make a reservation in advance, then descend to the underground corridor where a nondescript door betrays nothing of the chic, secret agent-worthy speakeasy inside.
Standout features: Raffles London has plenty of wow moments, but it wins with its tiniest gestures: The bottle of lavender pillow spray left by the bed after the evening turndown service, for example, or the colorful fine bone china designed exclusively for chef Mauro Colagreco and his eponymous restaurant, which brings whimsy to the classic property.
Can't stop thinking about: The Granville Suite, one of the hotel's heritage suites, pays tribute to one of the most influential figures who worked in the OWO. Granville, rumored to be Churchill's favorite spy, was a secret operative during World War II; her exploits included parachuting and skiing through enemy territory. Her namesake suite is a palatial hideaway with antique fireplaces, elaborate wood paneling and a copper soaking tub worthy of her courage.
The Lowdown
The movie that could be filmed here: Any of the Bond films—in fact, the building stood in for the MI6 base in five Bond movies from 1983 to 2015, and even though "No Time to Die" wasn't one of them, the Aston Martin DB5 featured in the 2021 blockbuster was halved and now hangs suspended above The Spy Bar.
The highly specific reason you'd come here: To pretend to be a spy, of course, but also for a nightcap; all the bars are excellent and draw a high-spirited crowd of locals. Plus, your hotel reservation gets you access to The Spy Bar.
What's on the speakers? You might hear neutral instrumental music throughout the property, but you'll want to really listen to the pianist who plays at a grand piano in The Drawing Room every day from 3 to 7 p.m.
What are people drinking? An impressive amount of gin (specifically, the Sipsmith Raffles 1915 gin, crafted exclusively for Raffles hotels). Try it in the London Sling, featuring Linden tea, strawberry, a gooseberry aperitif, cherry bitters and an oat wash.
The celebrity you'd see here: Prince William, probably.
The Perfect Stay
Rise and shine
Your mission for the day is to discover all the hotel's secrets, of course. But first, breakfast. Supplement the continental breakfast spread at Saison with à la carte orders (try the eggs royal with smoked chalk stream trout). Or, grab a light bite like a coconut yogurt parfait and coffee to go from the wellness-focused Pillar Cafe by the spa.
Morning
Prepare for a day of culinary inquiry by sneaking in a few reps at the fitness center or laps at the underground pool. There are designated "family swim" times, so steer clear of those if you want a splash-free swim session.
Afternoon
Staying at the Raffles London puts you within walking distance of landmarks including Big Ben, Downing Street, Trafalgar Square and Westminster Abbey—even Buckingham Palace is a short 15-minute Tube ride away. Spend the afternoon sightseeing; just make sure to be back in time to snag a table in the Drawing Room when a live pianist strikes up a tune and guests sip everything from custom Raffles OWO loose-leaf teas to Champagne.
Evening
If you eat only one meal at the Raffles at the OWO, it should be at chef Mauro Colagreco's eponymous restaurant, where the vegetable-led tasting menu showcases incredibly local ingredients (including butter lettuce grown in a hydroponic garden less than two miles from the hotel—seriously), and meals begin and end with a flurry of snacks and small sweets. For something even more spectacular, Mauro's Table offers a private dining experience.
Late night
Make a reservation for The Spy Bar—find it downstairs, behind a nondescript black door in meeting rooms where the Secret Service Bureau got its start. Knock for entry and be prepared to cover your phone camera with a sticker, since sharing intelligence (er, photos) is strictly forbidden. Drinks have almost alchemic ingredients and tell the stories of top-secret spy history, and there are a dizzying number of iterations of the martini. Remember to order yours "shaken, not stirred."
Know Before You Go
Getting there
You can easily Uber or take a cab here from the airport (it's about an hour from London Heathrow without traffic). You can also make like a Londoner and take the Tube instead. Though the Piccadilly line at Leicester Square is about a 15-minute walk from the hotel, it runs directly from Heathrow's Terminal 4 and takes about an hour.
Tech specs
The building may be historic, but even during its stint as the War Office, it was ahead of its time in terms of technology. Now, guests can expect to stay plugged in with strong Wi-Fi, ample bedside outlets with USB ports (plus a North America adapter in the nightstand) and an in-room tablet that controls everything from the lights to the television. Still, connectivity in general is spotty; there are many areas throughout the hotel where the cell service drops entirely. Chalk it up to the property's legacy as a center of spy activity.
When to go
Plan for an off-season stay to keep the room rates from getting exorbitant. Plus, a drizzly, gray U.K. day makes it easier to stay inside, eating your way around the property.
What’s included
The basics, including bottled water, coffee and Camellia's teas.
What’s around
A stately structure in the middle of London's Whitehall neighborhood, Raffles London is walking distance to some of the city's most popular tourist neighborhoods (Mayfair, Covent Garden), major landmarks and train stations including Charing Cross.
Fast Facts
- Number of rooms: 120
- Number of pools: 2, including the spa’s vitality pool
- Fitness center? Yes
- Spa? Yes
- Salon? Yes
- Number of bars/restaurants: 11
- 24-hour room service? Yes
- Childcare and kids club? Babysitting services can be arranged on request.
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