Live Like a Prince—Or at Least a Duke—at Madrid’s Palacio de Los Duques

Once upon a time in Madrid, there lived a duke—the sixth Duque de Granada de Ega y Villahermosa, to be precise. In the 1850s, he commissioned a grand residence befitting a man of his stature, situated as close as possible to the palace and dripping with luxury, so as to leave an impression on the parade of well-heeled guests the duke constantly entertained.

Roughly 170 years later, that residence—now the Palacio de los Duques Gran Meliá—still stands, now in a merging of the original palace with the 13th-century Convent of Santo Domingo. Its quiet street in Los Austrias is just down the block from the Teatro Real and neighboring Palacio Real, near enough to the historic heart of the city to feel accessible, tucked away enough to feel like an escape. And of course, in its new life as a luxury hotel, it’s still welcoming a parade of visitors, now an eclectic mix of multi-gen families, friend groups on holiday and the odd business traveler, cosseted and catered to from the moment they walk in the door until the moment a porter clicks the black-car door shut and sends them on their way.

Taking creative inspiration from a Baroque artist might suggest a hotel planted firmly in the distant past, but at Palacio de los Duques, every gesture to history is met with a distinctly modern counterpoint: Sleek, contemporary iron-and-brass light fixtures illuminate antique tapestries; a massive mural behind the check-in desk is remixed with geometric wooden cutouts that frame the faces of the Habsburg children.

The jewel of the property is a generous central courtyard, lushly planted with lavender and ornamental alliums that bob in the breeze, a scattering of classical statues across the beds. Amid the thrum of this cosmopolitan city, it feels especially luxurious to have such an idyllic outdoor space in which to read a book and sip a cocktail on a sunny afternoon. Should you prefer to lounge around, you’ll find ample opportunities on the rooftop, where a compact but no less lovely pool ringed by lounge chairs awaits, along with a hot tub and bar service.

When you’re not idling around the hotel, the Palacio de los Duques lays the city at your feet, with the Plaza Mayor, Gran Vía, Palacio Real, Teatro Real and several other noteworthy sights less than a 10-minute walk away. The Callao metro stop is a five-minute walk, but if public transportation isn’t your style, the hotel’s complimentary chauffeur service can drop you anywhere within 4 kilometers (roughly 2.5 miles) of the hotel, including the trifecta of major art museums: the Prado, Reina Sofía and Thyssen-Bornemisza. 

You’d be remiss to stay here without a visit to the Thai Room Wellness & Massage spa, where a wave of relaxation hits the moment you enter into dim lighting and stop at the converted fruit cart that serves as a front desk. Through carved teak shutters, you can catch a glimpse of the spirit houses—shrines crafted to look like miniature buildings—in a central light well before making your way to a treatment room decorated with antiques and decor from across Asia. In clumsier hands the concept could feel gimmicky, but here the effect is transportive—a palate cleanser of sorts for further adventures in Madrid. 

The Room

Classic glamour meets contemporary style in the rooms and suites, where large-scale Velázquez reproductions double as Baroque backdrops against glass walls, lacquered accent pieces and heavy draperies. The furnishings and decor are clean-lined and textural—slick black tables, heavy gold draperies, cushy beige velvet couches—so as to highlight the painter’s work. In lieu of solid walls, some bathrooms are cordoned off with gold-accented glass panes that emphasize the high ceilings and keep the spaces light and bright, with thick privacy curtains should your bubble bath not call for an audience. 

For maximum light and airiness, book a room on the second floor (the first floor, according to European convention): This level was once home to the ducal bedrooms (upper floors were servants’ quarters), so rooms here have the highest ceilings and tallest windows in the hotel.

The Features

If you’re staying in for the night, have dinner at Jardín de los Duques—the deconstructed mackerel topped with tiny green-gold globes of olive-oil “caviar” is a sleeper hit.

Don’t miss: Dinner at Jardín de los Duques, a fine-dining spot in a building that was formerly the stables. If the weather is good, grab a table in the courtyard and order the hake cheeks in salsa verde; the dish is a favorite among Spanish guests.

Standout features: The exclusive lounge and courtyard space available to RedLevel guests. A sanctum within the hotel, it features a private check-in, dedicated concierge, daily complimentary breakfast buffet and round-the-clock access to a self-serve selection of drinks, should the mood strike for a midafternoon espresso or Campari spritz.

Can’t stop thinking about: The Discovery Center on the ground floor, a collection of miniature displays from historic local shops, cultural institutions and even major museums—legendary cape makers Seseña, the Teatro Real and the Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza, among others. It’s a prime spot to linger while waiting to meet up with a group or kill time before a dinner reservation. Take care to wander the rest of the public spaces, too; the hotel has an impressive collection of antiques and artwork, many with informational placards, scattered throughout the ground floor. 

The Lowdown

You’d be remiss not to visit the Thai Room Wellness & Massage spa, if only to ogle the decor.

The perfect spot for your social media post: The sweeping grand staircase, a relic from the main building’s days as a ducal residence. It’s flanked by sculptures from the Meliá Hotels International CEO’s personal collection and minimalist wire light fixtures for a classic-meets-modern vibe.

Are guests staying in or going out? A little of both. Spain is ideal for night owls, and heading out to dinner at 10:30 p.m. is the norm. But if you’d rather hang back at the hotel, there are people sipping glasses of albariño in the courtyard well into the evening—Palacio de los Duques draws a low-key crowd and plenty of families.

What you’re buying from the minibar: Rosa Lafuente navajas (razor clams) or zamburiñas (scallops) from Galicia. Both specialties come in gorgeous round tins wrapped in blush-pink paper, and they are the perfect easily packable souvenir to toss into your bag and bring with a bottle of cava to your coolest friend’s next dinner party.

What might surprise you: The Thai Room Wellness & Massage spa, a moody, intimate space outfitted with architectural features and decor from across Asia, staffed by a team of expert Thai aestheticians and massage therapists. It feels like a slice of Southeast Asia plunked down in the heart of Spain, and while it’s unexpected, the ambience is unbeatable.

As hotel experiences go, it’s tough to beat fully loaded room service in the grand Presidential Penthouse.

Fast Facts

• Number of rooms: 180
• Number of pools: 1, on the roof 
• Fitness center? Yes
• Spa? Yes
• Salon? No
• Number of bars/restaurants: 3, including the rooftop pool bar
• 24-hour room service? Yes
• Childcare and kids club? No kids club, but the hotel can arrange childcare upon request.

This feature, based on a visit in July 2024, includes information that is subject to change. Please check with the hotel to confirm information prior to your stay.