One&Only Palmilla: A Los Cabos Resort That Actually Feels Like Mexico

One&Only Palmilla is at odds with its surroundings—in a good way. For starters, the resort is a literal oasis. On the drive from the airport, you'll pass arid desert studded with cacti, but when you pull into the resort's driveway, you'll find 250 palm tree-filled acres, all bordering the Sea of Cortez.

Palmilla is also a truly Mexican property in a way that many Los Cabos hotels are not. The architecture is inspired by a classic hacienda, with white stucco walls and red clay roof tiles, and Maya traditions play into everything from the arrival experience to the spa treatments. Plus, there's a swimmable beach—something you won't find at most other resorts in the area because of the rocky coastline and ubiquitous riptide. A visit here is still a sort of escapism (especially when you're lounging by one of the two infinity pools overlooking the ocean), but you can expect a more thoughtful, culturally rich experience than you might encounter elsewhere in Los Cabos.

The story of One&Only Palmilla began in 1957, when Don Abelardo Rodriguez (the son of Mexico's then-president), built a compound here for himself and his friends.

Since then, there's been a real effort to preserve the property's original architecture and hacienda-like feel. All the archways, red roofs and painted tiles on the stairs take you back in time, and you can even attend Sunday mass in the chapel Rodriguez commissioned for his workers. The hotel's history is also part of the welcome experience; after checking in, you can ring a giant bell to announce your arrival—just as Rodriguez and his friends used to do. An ancient Mexican blessing using copal incense to relax your mind follows.

Though the vibe skews romantic, Palmilla is great for children. Families return again and again just to see their favorite counselors at the kids' club; creative programming includes nature walks and cooking classes; and the family-friendly Agua pool is pretty enough to hang out at even if you don't have children, though the tiny fountains, waterfall feature, wading area and pint-size daybeds are a dream for tots.

But, back to the grown-ups. At the One&Only Spa, spiritual healers can lead you through ancient healing rituals like temazcal ceremonies. The experience involves drumming, chanting and time spent in a sweat lodge to leave you feeling rejuvenated (if not a little dehydrated).

Make sure to book at least one dinner at Suviche, a Japanese-Peruvian mashup serving creative takes on—you guessed it—sushi and ceviche. Sit at the sushi counter and watch the chefs work while you enjoy everything from tuna truffle nigiri to seabass-and-pineapple ceviche. It won't be a Mexican meal, but it'll leave you with a strong sense of place—much like the hotel.

The Room

There are several different room types, and even those in the same category can have vastly different layouts depending on whether they're in original or newer buildings—but all feature a private terrace or patio with ocean views. Details like big wooden doors and colorful tiles in the bathrooms put you squarely in Mexico.

Suites come with deep soaking tubs and fun extras like yoga mats and binoculars for whale watching from the beach (especially in December and January). The standout category is the Casita junior suite, which includes a private infinity pool steps from the ocean. However, if you're tempted to book an ocean-view junior suite, know that the lower-category Palmilla rooms are almost as big and much closer to the beach.

The Features

Don't miss: Pelican Beach, which is swimmable and private to the resort—both of which are a rarity in Los Cabos. Rent a surfboard, sign up for a lesson at the Tropicsurf Shack or take out one of the complimentary standup paddleboards (boogie boards, kayaks, sailboats and snorkel gear are also available). When you're ready to chill, there's a beach grill with ceviches, tacos and other light bites as well as cabanas with day beds; perfect for a family to rent for a day on the sand.

Favorite features: The Talavera tile-bordered soaking tubs in the suites. With views of the ocean, baths are nothing short of heavenly. Dedicated butlers are another highlight here; they'll check in every morning and can, say, help when you need to change all your restaurant reservations at the last minute.

Can't stop thinking about: The toro and foie gras nigiri at Suviche. Everything here is next level, including the tuna-and-watermelon ceviche and the yellowtail jalapeño roll. But the perfectly cooked rice topped with a hunk of foie gras and a thick slice of seared tuna belly might alter your brain chemistry. (For a more traditional Japanese dinner, try the resort's newest restaurant, Hoshi, an omakase-style spot serving everything from sushi and sashimi to tempura and robata dishes.)

The Lowdown

The highly specific reason you'd come here: For a memorable family vacation that also involves plenty of quality, kid-free time.

The thing your kids won't stop talking about: The waterfall feature at the Agua pool, which flows down steps into a wading pool.

What are people drinking? The hotel's namesake margaritas (with ginger syrup and grapefruit shrub) at cocktail hour.

Are guests staying in or going out? Mostly staying in, though there's great dining, shopping and a popular Thursday night art walk in nearby San José del Cabo.

What's on the speakers: A live band at Agua Bar seven nights a week during peak season that creates a festive scene around the open-air bar.

Fast Facts

• Number of rooms: 174 rooms and 2 villas
• Number of pools: 2
• Fitness center? Yes
• Spa? Yes
• Salon? Yes
• Number of bars/restaurants: 7
• 24-hour room service? Yes
• Childcare and kids club? Yes

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