Caruso, A Belmond Hotel: A Hilltop Hideaway Far From the Amalfi Coast Crowds

On a quiet street in the small Amalfi Coast town of Ravello is Caruso, A Belmond Hotel; its understated façade does little to reveal what lies inside. As soon as you enter the lobby, though, and catch your first glimpse of the hotel’s sweeping coastline views, you’ll quickly realize what all the fuss is about.

Of the three most famous towns along this storied coast—you probably know the other two, Positano and Amalfi—Ravello is considered the destination for clued-in travelers.

Historically, the little hilltop hamlet, which sits high above the Tyrrhenian Sea, was the province of the nobility, writers, composers and erstwhile public intellectuals alike. All were drawn to, and found inspiration in, its seaside vistas and narrow, winding streets.

Caruso, which teeters atop one of the town’s spectacular overlooks, began as a noble palace in the 11th century, and to this day, it exudes old-world elegance. Everywhere you look, you’ll find marble columns, beautiful frescoes and precious antiques. The atmosphere is so charmed, it feels as if you’ve taken a walk-on part in a turn-of-the-century romance novel. (And in fact, several were written in Ravello.) 

Unsurprisingly, the hotel lends itself especially well to honeymoons, but families are equally welcome, with little ones pampered with backpacks and activities like pizza-making.

Beyond just the stately palazzo itself, the gardens are what really set this place apart. A long, overgrown trellis leads you from the villa to the main focal point: a glossy infinity pool overlooking the sea. Citrus trees and flowers blossom in tandem, and you might even spot grapes emerging from the vines. Beside the trellis, intimate seating areas with chairs or, closer to the pool, plush lounge chairs and umbrellas, invite you to relax and enjoy the gardens.

It feels serene—like a secret respite from the crowds thronging the rest of the fabled coast.

Rather than dashing off to nearby Positano or Amalfi, you might be tempted to stay put thanks to the hotel’s top-shelf dining. There’s Ristorante Belvedere, a white-tablecloth affair that serves a buffet breakfast in the morning and elevated takes on local recipes in the evening; the casual Caruso Grill, where you can enjoy fresh seafood and excellent pizza on an alfresco terrace; and Bar Caruso, where you’ll find—count ’em—three versions of the classic club sandwich, as well as other international standards.

There are also a handful of activities that the hotel organizes, both on- and off-property, such as pasta- and limoncello-making classes, tours of the gardens and outings on the hotel’s very own boat. Of course, the concierge can recommend things to do beyond the property, like hiking the Path of the Gods, a five-mile trail that winds through the mountains, reaching more than 2,000 feet above sea level, or hearing classical music performed at the Villa Rufolo, followed by a dinner reservation at one of the local restaurants. (If you do decide to tackle the Path of the Gods, a revitalizing outdoor massage in the hotel spa’s private gazebo will be in order.)

While the hotel feels like its own little world high above the sea, the center of Ravello is just a short walk away. The town is made for exploring on foot, and part of the joy of being there is getting lost in its rambling lanes, popping into shops selling handmade ceramics or sandals, visiting the historic villas and savoring simple dishes like a caprese salad made with ripe, juicy tomatoes. Life really feels sweeter here.

The Room

Entry-level rooms start at a generous 376 square feet, so there’s really no bad room in the house. Each of the 50 rooms has its own unique touches, such as colorful tile floors or vaulted stone ceilings. Plush Frette robes, Dyson hair dryers, Nespresso machines and Acqua di Parma bath products come standard. Most rooms have sea views, and the vast majority have a bathtub (only one room doesn’t).

If you want guaranteed prized vistas, book a Deluxe room or higher, and if having a terrace or garden is a priority, be sure to mention that when booking. The crème de la crème is Villa Margherita, a stand-alone structure with two suites, each of which occupies one floor of the building, plus a rooftop terrace and private garden. Hand-painted ceilings, a chandelier adorned with seashells, antiques and oil paintings lend the villa a rarefied air—and the butler service doesn’t hurt either.

The Features

The bar manager prepares a cocktail using Amalfi's sfusato lemons.

Don’t miss: Aperitivo is a beloved ritual all over Italy, but it’s especially enjoyable here, whether you cozy up in one of the leather club chairs at Bar Caruso or a wicker chair in the Loggiato, the bar’s open-air extension. The cocktails are served with complimentary olives, almonds, hazelnuts and house-made potato chips, as well as a few little surprises from the kitchen, and there’s live music most nights.

Favorite features: It’s hard to tear yourself away from the infinity pool, with its views of the sea and coastline. Good thing the pool attendants will make sure you’re set up with towels and water, and that every now and then someone will come around with a sweet treat like gelato or chocolate mousse.

Can’t stop thinking about: The limoncello class with Tommaso Mansi, the bar manager, whose family has been cultivating Amalfi’s sfusato lemons on their own farm for generations. Tommaso will explain how the farmers plant the special regional lemons prized for their thick, fragrant skin on mountainside terraces, pick them by hand and transport them with the help of donkeys.

The Lowdown

On hot summer days, it can be hard to tear yourself away from this infinity pool.

What are people drinking? Unsurprisingly, several of the signature cocktails feature Amalfi’s distinct regional lemons, which are sweeter than most varieties. Our pick is the Wagner (Belvedere citrus, limoncello, fresh mint and prosecco, topped with a scoop of lemon sorbetto).

The dish you’re re-creating at home: After taking Tommaso’s limoncello class, you’ll be ready to make your own sticky-sweet liqueur at home.

Are guests staying in or going out? It depends how long they’re staying. Most guests want to try all the hotel’s dining outlets—then they go out and explore.

There aren't really any bad views to be found at this hilltop estate.

Fast Facts

• Number of rooms: 50
• Number of pools: 1
• Fitness center? Yes
• Spa? Yes
• Salon? Yes
• Number of bars/restaurants: 2 restaurants, 2 bars
• 24-hour room service? Yes
• Childcare and kids club? No kids club, but babysitting can be arranged